Road to Punta Gallina | Checkpoint

Colombia

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Verified:
9 months ago
Altitude:
20.0 masl
Contributor:
MaJanta.net

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Toll Gate by Indigenas which you can't pass by. They don't let you go through without paying. We don't support begging. So we turned. Locals told us there are forty and more gates on this road and for them it's also a pain.
Edit 02/2017: Still going on, but it's not so bad. It's 6 families that do this, each about 20-30 meters from each other - the rate is 1000 or 2000COP each, as the local guides said us. After this 6 "peajes", there are only some children with ropes, you don't need to stop if you don't want. See my check-in for more info (weddingtravellers)

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Just to reinforce: bring MANY bags of water, cookies, and fruits. Toys and clothes are also welcome! This for the children. Adults always ask for coffee and rice. We went through at least 60 blocks on the way to Punta Gallinas and we had nothing left for the return (yes! They also block and ask on the return!). There is a block before the entrance to the National Park where they order 20000 COP - but they also sell arepas and drinks, so consume and you will not have to pay to pass. Some other blocks closer to Punta Gallinas charge 2000cop, and are hard to negotiate with food, so be prepared for a lot of talk (and patience, and smiles) 🙄
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Somente para reforçar: traga MUITOS sacos de água, biscoitos, e frutas. Brinquedos e roupas também são bem vindos! Isso para as crianças. Os adultos sempre pedem por café e arroz. Passamos por pelo menos 60 bloqueios na ida para Punta Gallinas e não nos sobrou nada para a volta (sim! eles também bloqueiam e pedem na volta!). Existe um bloqueio antes da entrada do parque nacional onde pedem 20000 COP - mas eles também vendem arepas e bebidas, então consuma e a princípio não terá que pagar para passar. Alguns outros bloqueios mais próximos a Punta Gallinas cobram 2000COP, e são difíceis de negociar com comida, então esteja preparado para muita conversa (e paciência, e sorrisos) 🙄

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Because of tourists always thinking of doing something good in giving local people cookies and other stuff, they now started to ask for money. Every roadblock asks between 2000 to 10000 COP. Don't support this!!!! We have seen at least 15 roadblocks for the first 500m.

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We took this road to Cabo instead of the one before. It adds a little but there is no road block from this point. In this main road from Uribia we had 3 road blocks. Buy “galletas”, crakers, rice and they’ll be happy.

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@sidewaysmoon that blame people for not liking it and "we should understand" is a donation.?!?(soo annoying 'benefactor'vibe .it's a plain EXTORSION to stop cars and pretend money! we live on OUR world-planet and not passing throu 'their' land.as travellers we DO bring money in anyway passing!

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This is the main road block area on the road. When we came through up and down two main stops where there was a group of kids and adults using tires and branches across the road to stop traffic asking for 2k-5k. On the way up we gave gum and water and once it looked like we would go through their sticks they moved them. On the way down they were very insistent on the money but we were patient and after some joking around and negotiation a tennis ball proved quite appealing. If I was going to do it again I think bringing some little cheap toys for the kids might be a good option as well as some snacks which is more useful than water for these stops on the main road.

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The toll stil exist, we were surprised it was so many, so bring a lot, around 70.
To go to punta gallinas, it was okay, you pass some, you give other, they are always smiling.
For the return the punta gallinas, they asked again and were more mean so just drive.
Because at some point, you can buy beer and other stuff in restaurant's and hospedaje in the point were the tours are going.
But please don't give money, give water, fruits and no sweet, they will of course not brush their teeth so don't bring other disease with sugar.

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People who travel this road don’t understand. I know this may upset some budget travelers, but this is indigenous land and you are a guest. The people have to pay for water and don’t have a lot of money. Best thing you can do is not look at it like a bribe or being ripped off, but a donation and gesture of good will for a people who have next to nothing and appreciation for being allowed to visit someone else’s home. Bring a big bag full of the water pockets, cookie packets and cafe. Give cafe to the old men and a water pocket and cookie packet to the kids. We believe in supporting the ladies and kids selling crafts. Then in a firm voice say “POO-ta-la!” They will drop the cord. This is all from our guide, a Wayuu native who grew up here and has driven these roads for thirty years. Sorry if this upsets anyone but it is a part of the experience.

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so you don't really have to give anything. once you start driving towards the rope they will drop it. some people are a bit pushy so definitely don't give anything to them. I brought some sweets and gave them to friendly kids without ropes.

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Agree with last post below. The first set of 'barriers' are close together with an angry woman demanding 1000$, after that it wad just kids. To some we gave wholemeal biscuits (cookies), some we just drove through (you can't possibly feed every Waayu child in La Guajira) and they just dropped the rope, smiled and waved. With hindsight I wish we had taken paper or books and pens/pencils for them instead of food.

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We were driving through end of December and the road blocks are still here. Everyone asked for 2000 COP but I guess you could bargain to 1000 COP with most of them. We were not sure how many road blocks there are because it looked as if they wouldn't end and tried not to pay but give away some food. They laughed about our water and said they wouldn't need it. But every single one of them liked our rice and oranges. In the end it was about 6 or 7 major tolls, and at each we gave away 1 pack of rice and 1 or 2 oranges. Although the value was the same like 1000 COP we preferred this way. Everyone was friendly but they insisted on their toll.
We were travelling alone (1 car, 2 persons) and didn't feel unsafe, just a bit frustrated. If you want to drive north you have to accept to pay the families their toll.
Shortly after these main tolls there were 10-15 string barriers by children. (All together more than 40 on our way north). Usually you can slowly drive through and they will drop the rope. But some of them were mounted between two trees/sticks, with parts from a bicycle chain and we didn't want to just drive through. The kids wanted money or sweets which we refused. After some talking they let us pass.
On our return trip everyone asked for money or sweets again. We could talk our way through at most of the barriers and gave out some food and water again.

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I rode my motorbike out to Punta Gallinas and turned off the road before this and found my own way through the desert. on my return I deliberately came the main 'road' to get accurate information. if you're in a rig then some of the checkpoints will be difficult to get around. nobody was violent but there was about 6 that were using chains. The rest are just children. I went all the way there and back again without paying anything. money or sweets and no problems. It's sad that they are poor but I do not support this type of behaviour and we shouldn't encourage it. Don't turn round. It's so worth the trip for the experience. I travelled solo on my motorbike all the way and didn't feel threatened ever. Go for it.

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It's still definitely going on. We were following the tour cars(negotiated before and gave them a tip afterwards) - they explained there are 6 or 7 families that do this here. They won't drop the rope(sometimes chain) and don't accept water (they even told me "no quiero agua quiero plata".) Best to go with a tour guide and just accept you have to pay here - they explained me that you pay 1000cop to each of the 6 families, no more.
It was a bit frustrating and I wouldn't go there on my own, but if you follow someone you get through them in a few minutes.
After these 6 "tolls", there are only some string barriers. If you want, you can slowly go and don't stop and they always drop it - we sometimes did that, sometimes gave them some water or tried to support those who actually were selling something.
Punta Gallinas is 4x4 only - I really think so. Read my iOverlander point I put in Cabo de la Vela for more information how to get there in your own car.

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This "checkpoint" did not exist anymore. We got out of Cabo de la Vela this way without paying any money to local way layers. There is, however, the occasional "string barrier" being held up by children who ask for money or biscuits. Do not support begging. And certainly do not give them wrapped sweets because the wrapping will invariably land in the ditch.
As long as there are no angry-looking adults around and the kids do not threaten to throw rocks at your car, you can largely just ignore the "barricade" and slowly push through the string. Or else you insist this be a two-way deal and they provide some sort of benefit to you (entertainment, cleaning of headlights, etc.) before you hand out biscuits.

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This is still going on. They are armed with big rocks and ropes in case you try to push through, very angry. Not interested in food (we tried with apple and banana and they laughed at it. Only money or sweets (maybe sweets only works when it's children though?) not a pleasant experience at all. We turned around, not worth a broken windshield and don't agree with giving money.

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We tried to go to Punta Gallina via road. There were many rope/ wire gates manned by an indigenous group all within 20m of each other near the start of the road. Some you could drive around, but others were blocked by tyres/trees. They asked for 2000 peso at each. We refused to pay but offerred fruit which was refused. By the 5th one the situation got a bit heated in which they were standing in front of the car holding rocks and yelling at us. At this point we decided to turn as we did not feel safe. They of course blocked us again on our way out through the blockades. The heated situation continued so we ended up paying 1500 just to get out. It was very frustrating. They let the guided tours through. The guides said that sometimes they pay or give sweets, and sometimes they go through without paying. I think your best chance to get through is to take a guide with you or pay. :( Sad

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Be sure to bring plenty of giveaways (water, small bags of rice, oranges) as there are several "rope stops" with children begging. We don't support begging but this is a very desolate area. Be prepared to have your heart strings pulled. Some families sell a cactus fruit + we really liked it. 4WD + good clearance necessary to get to Punta Gallinas. Be prepared to air down and/or throttle through the sand dune sections. We used our GPS tracker + MapsMe to navigate through the desert roads.

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Toll Gate by Indigenas which you can't pass by. They don't let you go through without paying. We don't support begging. So we turned. Locals told us there are forty and more gates on this road and for them it's also a pain.

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